If you’d asked me if I ever imagined myself catching a wave and surfing in Siargao a few years ago, I would have said no. Yet fast forward to 2024, and here I am smiling as I reminisce about the first time, I successfully stood on my rented surfboard at the island’s well-known Cloud 9 drenched in its salty seawater and basking in its golden hour.
Dubbed the “Surfing Capital of the Philippines”, Siargao Island has etched its name as one of the most sought-after destinations in the country due to its world-class waves and surf breaks. But apart from being a surfer’s paradise, this small island in the southeastern Philippines is also blessed with a handful of natural formations including laid-back white sand beaches, mangrove forests and hidden lagoons that tourists and surf enthusiasts return to. Hence, it is no wonder why the term “Siargao curse” has risen over the years which refers to the irresistible feeling of never wanting to leave the island.
Curious and drawn to its natural charm and so-called “curse”, I’ve finally decided to tick off another local tourist destination on my bucket list and find out if I’ll also fall under Siargao’s mysterious spell.
Check out my second time and how I explored North Siargao and worked remotely from the island!
Table of Contents
- How to Get There
- Best Time to Go
- Getting Around
- Where to Stay
- Things to Do
- Where to Eat
- Sample Itinerary
- Is ‘Siargao curse’ real?
How to Get There
Located north offshore mainland Mindanao in the province of Surigao del Norte, Siargao’s easternmost location makes it one of the few places in the country facing the Philippine Sea and Pacific Ocean. This remote position on the map is also the same reason why the island is inaccessible to most Filipinos outside Caraga region where it is part of because of expensive direct flights and several transfers.
Nonetheless, for keen travelers, there are several ways to reach Siargao, which can be either by air, water, or a combination of both.
By air
Unlike other major tourist destinations in the country like Cebu, Bohol and Palawan, traveling to Siargao became a bit tricky for me because I either had to shell out a handful of money to save time for a direct flight to the island from Manila or allot extra hours for a layover flight going to it or depart from a nearby airport outside of the city to save more.
Philippine Airlines has regular direct flights to and from Siargao Island, which cost from ₱6,200-₱14,700 per one-way economy class ticket, and as a budget traveler, this range is on the pricier side, hence, going to the island directly from Manila isn’t an option for me.
An alternative to this is traveling to the nearby Clark International Airport in the province of Pampanga, where I was able to score cheap round-trip flight tickets in my second visit to the island for only ₱8,109.19 with Sunlight Air. Other major local airlines like Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines also operate Siargao flights via this route, which is relatively cheaper than flying from Manila.
Another option is having a layover in Cebu from Manila before boarding a flight going to Siargao. This was the same route that we took during our first trip, where we were able to score round-trip tickets on sale to and from Siargao on Cebu Pacific for only ₱6,795.24. This can go cheaper, especially if you book tickets as early as six months before your intended departure.
By water
A recently launched route offered by local logistics and transportation company, 2Go, traveling to Siargao from Manila by water is also now possible with the ferries that dock on the island weekly.
For ₱4,500-₱5,700, travelers have an option to choose from a super value class to a business class bunk cabin, which will be their home for the entire 30-hour journey of the ferry from Manila.
Manila departures are scheduled weekly every Monday at 6:30PM, while Siargao ones leave the island every Wednesday at 2:30AM.
By air and water
Another option to travel to Siargao is by flying to Surigao City in Surigao del Norte and riding the ferry going to Dapa, Siargao.
Cebu Pacific has several daily flights going to Surigao Airport which include direct flights that cost around ₱2,700-₱9,800 per ticket and layover flights with a stop in Cebu for as low as ₱1,900 during seat sales. The airport is also just a tricycle away from Surigao Port where the ferries bound for Siargao are docked with tickets ranging from ₱400-₱500. Travel time to Dapa Port can take up to 1.5 hours.
The catch in this option though is the limited schedules of ferries bound for Siargao, hence, if you’re taking this alternative, ensure to align your flight around it.
Book your Manila to Siargao transportation here!
Best Time to Go
When we hopped into our rented tuktuk for the first time in Siargao and the driver said that we picked a good time to visit the island, I was instantly relieved from the worry of being unacquainted with Mindanao’s weather. Since it was my first time in the region, I wasn’t initially confident that our trip wouldn’t be marred by unexpected rains or cancelled tours until this confirmation.
For beach bumming and island-hopping activities, the best time to visit Siargao is during its dry season which starts from March to October when the island receives the least amount of rain. The chances of tours getting cancelled or destinations getting closed during this period are also low which allows visitors to see its tourist spots in its full beauty.
For surfing, the best time to go is during the swell season which starts from August to November. These months receive the best waves and are also the same period when the annual Siargao International Surf Cup is held.
As much as possible, avoid the months of December to February when going to Siargao as this is the time when the island receives the highest amount of rain and experiences strong tropical typhoons.
Getting Around
There are several modes of transportation in Siargao and one of them and, most likely the first option that you would be trying after getting out of the airport are shared vans.
Since the island’s airport is located 26 kilometers away from the town center of General Luna where most accommodations and establishments are found, the convenient way to go to it is to ride a shared van which costs ₱300 per person. This option is also the usual choice when going back to the airport. Travel time going to and from General Luna by shared van can take up to 45 minutes.
Another popular mode of transport on the island is riding a tuktuk which is good for covering short and long distances. During our trip, we mainly utilized this option in going to dining spots from our accommodation, but some drivers are also trained to conduct land tours that cover the island’s must-see attractions. In General Luna, the standard fare for tuktuks costs ₱30 while short distances cost ₱25.
If you want to see the island but don’t know how to ride a motorcycle, you can also hire a habal-habal or motorcycle taxi as an option to get around Siargao. We tried this once and it cost us ₱30 for a short distance.
Lastly, for experienced drivers who would like to explore the roads of Siargao on their own, another option is motorcycle and car rentals.
In downtown General Luna, it is a common sight to see tourists navigating the island by scooters or motorcycles whose rental starts at ₱350 per day. This can also be an alternative option when traveling from Siargao Airport to General Luna. If you’re planning to visit North Siargao, car rental is also a popular choice which starts at ₱2,000 per day. It is important to bring your driver’s license upon availing these services as both operators and the local government strictly observe this.
Where to Stay
Siargao is dotted with various accommodation options for every type of traveler so finding one isn’t going to be a problem whether you book in advance or look for one on the spot. Choosing the best place to stay depends on one’s preference and planned activities, hence, here are the areas to pick from when deciding where to stay on the island based on nearby activities and ambience.
General Luna
Most of the action on the island happens in the southeast in the town of General Luna where resorts and dining spots dot the major Tourism Road. However, upon reaching the town, I realized that this main thoroughfare stretches out for several kilometers and is composed of three smaller areas with their vibe and characteristics.
Poblacion V
If you’re after an accommodation that is within walking distance of restaurants, cafés, bars, stores and banks, the best area for you would be part of Tourism Road in Poblacion V. This neighborhood is brimming with establishments that one may need and a buzzing nightlife when the sun sets, hence, you can expect it to be busy by day and alive at night.
Some popular accomodations in this area are the following:
- Kermit Surf Resort
- Hang Loose Siargao
- Bravo Beach Resort
- Soffta Surf Ranch
- Siargao Bed and Brew
Catangnan
If surfing is your main activity for visiting Siargao, then the neighborhood of Catangnan would be the best area to stay on the island. Like the former, this place is also dotted with restaurants and accommodations for all types of travelers. Nonetheless, unlike Poblacion V, the distances of the establishments here are quite far from one another, hence, you may want to hire a tuktuk or rent a motorcycle when getting around this neighborhood.
Some popular accommodations in this area are the following:
Poblacion III
For peace in the center of the bustling General Luna, the neighborhood of Poblacion III is the best area to stay. With its proximity to the knitted establishments of Poblacion V, access to dining spots and retail stores is also a stone’s throw away while being within walking distance from the docking port of island-hopping tours.
Some well-known accommodations in the area are the following:
Malinao
For more peaceful and quiet accommodation alternatives within the island, the neighborhood of Malinao is a popular choice for travelers seeking refuge from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
Despite being located several kilometers away from the center of General Luna, this area boasts a handful of luxurious resorts and budget-friendly hostels and homestays offering additional front beach access. Some of the popular choices in the area are the following:
The northern part of Siargao has also been catching up with the developments in the south, hence, accommodation options like the popular Trogon’s Perch have also popped up in the different municipalities of the region to cater to visiting travelers and surfers who prefer the waves in this part of Siargao. However, since we haven’t been to this part of the island, I don’t have much idea about the different neighborhoods and places to stay in the area—maybe on my next trip to Siargao!
Things to Do
Aside from surfing, the island also boasts experiences and activities for every type of traveler whether you’re a laid-back beach bum, adrenaline junkie or party animal. For starters, here are the must-try things that one shouldn’t miss in their first time in Siargao.
Surfing in Cloud 9
You wouldn’t travel all the way to Siargao just to skip this well-known activity in the island, right? If so, one of the things that you shouldn’t miss in the place is experiencing the waves of the world-famous Cloud 9!
Allegedly named after a famous local chocolate bar, this surfing spot in the neighborhood of Catangnan is both novice and expert friendly. The area doesn’t run out of board rental stores for surfers and, instructors for inexperienced visitors who are keen to learn how to surf. Lessons start at ₱500 including the instructor and surfboard rental but be sure to pay the ₱100 entrance fee of the place and get the receipt before your lesson as this is a requirement before starting it.
On my first time on the island, we availed of Kuya Roswell’s (+639126544249) services on learning how to surf. You can contact him at his phone number or locate his store in front of the booth where you’ll pay the entrance fee.
Jumping in Sugba Lagoon
Another must-try activity when in Siargao is doing a jump on the diving board in the clear turquoise waters of Sugba Lagoon.
Nestled between off-coast lush cliffs in the westernmost part of the island, reaching Sugba Lagoon requires a 30-minute boat ride from its jump-off point in Del Carmen Port. Upon arriving at the destination, visitors will be greeted by a welcoming committee before being led to the floating pavilion where the diving board is located. Ensure to pack a bag of courage if you’re not confident with your diving skills as there is a time limit of two minutes for every jump.
Aside from cliff jumping, there are also other activities in the area which include kayaking, paddle boarding and swimming.
Sugba Lagoon is usually included in the island’s so-called Land Tour, hence, if you want to spare yourself from stress, I highly suggest joining in one for a more convenient and hassle-free experience. For our trip, we availed of the Budget Land Tour from Klook which has also shown us the other land attractions of the island.
Swimming in Magpupungko Rock Pool
A unique experience that I have only felt so far in Siargao, the tidal pools of Magpupungko are also among the handful of activities that one must not miss on the island.
This tide-dependent tourist spot can only be accessed during low tide in which a large natural pool is formed boasting clear turquoise waters. Aside from swimming, cliff diving is also a popular activity for people seeking an adrenaline rush.
Like Sugba Lagoon, Magpupungko Rock Pool is also part of the land tour that we have availed.
Jumping in Maasin River
Previously known for its bent coconut tree where people can swing and jump into its green waters, Maasin River is among the handful of tourist spots on the island that have become an icon and mainstay in the must-see places in Siargao.
During our trip, the famous bent coconut tree is gone after years of usage and is now replaced with a constructed diving board where tourists can jump to experience the waters of the river. Surrounding this are lines of lush coconut trees that complete the tropical ambience of the place, perfect for photo ops.
Like the first two, Maasin River is also part of the island’s so-called Land Tour.
Marvel at the Coconut Trees View Deck
If there is one thing that Siargao will never run out of, it would be palm trees which you can catch in a wide angle in the Coconut Trees View Deck.
This roadside tourist spot is free of charge and will allow one to take in the lush tropical landscape of Siargao from a distance. This is also the place where the viral ‘human drones‘ are located, who can take your pictures and videos as if it was taken by an actual drone.
Do the Tri-Island Hopping Tour
Aside from being an island itself full of natural wonders, Siargao is also the jump-off point to the region’s must-see remote attractions boasting clear turquoise waters, pristine white sand beaches and hidden lagoons.
One of these popular off-the-coast excursions is the so-called Tri-Island Hopping Tour which includes visits to the nearby Naked Island, Daku Island and Guyam Island.
Derived from the fact that it does not bear any single tree or plant in its area, Naked Island offers a 360-degree view of Siargao’s surrounding clear waters while boasting a pristine white sand beach. Due to its landscape, the island is probably one of the best places to do sunbathing because of the lack of any form of shade.
Daku Island is the largest among the three and the most commercialized among the group with the presence of cottages for dining tourists and a small residential area home to locals. During tours, this is the spot where most visitors have their lunch which also became famous for its creative presentation of boodle fights. On top of this, the island doesn’t fall behind in terms of natural beauty, which also boasts clear blue waters and fine white sand.
Completing the tour is the small Guyam Island, which, despite its size, prides itself on a charming laid-back appeal with the cluster of tall coconut trees that dot the area and clear blue waters and fine white sand like the first two where one can swim and laze around.
Similar to our land tour, we have also availed of Klook‘s Premium Tri-Island Tour which brought us to each island with an additional drop by at Secret Island which is submerged in seawater where one can swim and Marine Sanctuary which is a popular snorkeling spot boasting a coral reef.
Catching the Sunset at Catangnan Bridge
Aside from the various beaches of the island, another spot that is also frequented by both locals and tourists for sunset watching is Catangnan Bridge.
Mostly known as “AFAM Bridge”, this 349-meter construction connects the neighborhood of Catangnan and Cabitoonan and has been popularized for being a favorite spot of foreign tourists for sunset watching, skateboarding, cliff jumping, and, generally, chilling. The place has become so popular that a handful of pop-up street food stands appear near the bridge before sunset to cater to visitors in the area.
Experience the Siargao Nightlife
Accompanying the laid-back appeal of the island is the fun and memorable nightlife that it also offers to both locals and tourists during nightfall.
Dotting the stretch of Tourism Road are a handful of bars boasting their character and ambience for people in search of music and booze. Nightlife has become a staple in the area and there is a party schedule developed for every night hosted by either one or two bars. During our trip, we coincidentally stumbled upon the island’s foam party at Siargao Beach Club where we were drenched from the place’s soap bubbles on the dancefloor.
Aside from the aforementioned, here are the other popular bars that complete the nightlife in General Luna:
- El Lobo
- Happiness Bar
- Mama Coco
- Sidargo
- Hang Loose
Where to Eat
After a day of surfing, island hopping or beach bumming, one will be in search next of filling their grumbling stomachs and, fortunately, Siargao Island doesn’t fail to provide visitors with a variety of options to choose from. In fact, our four-day stay on the island is not enough to even cover some of the popular ones in General Luna due to the handful of options available.
Without further ado, here are some dining spots to try on Siargao Island sorted based on their price range:
High-Ranged
- Kermit Restaurant – Serves Italian fares with prices ranging from ₱100-₱630.
- The Bliss Restaurant – Serves Western, Italian and Filipino cuisines with prices ranging from ₱240-₱620.
Middle-Ranged
- CEV: Ceviche & Kinilaw Shack – The dining spot acclaimed to have the “best ceviche and kinilaw” in the island. Price ranges from ₱180-₱480.
- Shaka Café – Specializes in smoothie bowls and serves coffee. Price ranges from ₱110-₱380.
- Sunday – Serves coffee, breakfast meals, rice bowls and Western cuisine. Price ranges from ₱150-₱590.
- Kanin Baboy – Famous for their specialty spicy lechon. Price ranges from ₱85-₱385.
- Halika – Siargao’s famous artisan gelato store. Scoop starts from ₱150-₱250.
Low-Ranged
- Catangnan BBQ – Serves grilled streetfood. Price starts at ₱10.
- Kurvada – “Turo-turo” style dining spot with a price range that varies depending on the dish of your choice.
- Cariendera stores which serve home-cooked meals at a very affordable price and are scattered throughout General Luna.
Sample Itinerary
For our four-day stay in the island, here is the actual itinerary that we followed for our entire trip:
Is ‘Siargao curse’ real?
Going back to my curiosity about finding out if the “Siargao curse” is real, it’s interesting to realize that I wasn’t lured under the spell after four days of experiencing the island’s culture and natural beauty.
However, what made me want to go back to it in the future, aside from the urge to explore the northern part of the island, is its “zero-fucks-given” vibe of the people which I find amusing for being a stark contrast to the conservative culture of most places in the Philippines. Whether you’re wearing a bikini top while riding your scooter or want to do a run shirtless along the stretch of Tourism Road, the people of Siargao wouldn’t give you a confused and judging look for your choice of preference which I liked. In addition, despite being a Filipino myself, I am enthralled with the distinct warm hospitality of the locals.
Nonetheless, I couldn’t skip mentioning a few negative things that I noticed on the island, such as its expensiveness, which can match the hefty prices of Manila compared to other popular local destinations in the country. On top of this, the visible gentrification happening on the island is also concerning, which I hope the local government can regulate and shed light on.
But apart from these, it is not difficult to see and understand why others fall in love with Siargao, especially with its unique laid-back culture paired with promising natural formations.
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